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From my seat in the mouth of Hogup Cave, which is carved from a limestone outcropping on the remote northwest perimeter of Great Salt Lake, I can watch the expansive dry salt plain. Years ago, the cave was covered in the prehistoric sea, Lake Bonneville. I try to imagine the untold numbers of waterfowl and shorebirds that would have visited such an enormous body of water.
Some of those birds died here, and their remains filled the floor of this cave. Archeologists excavated the cave three decades ago. In the deepest layers of soil piled 14 feet thick, they found feathers of mallards and snowy egrets. Bones and other parts of eared grebes, shovelers and avocets also were discovered in the debris, along with ducks, three species of teals, and yellow-headed blackbirds. From my seat at Hogup Cave I can picture the change of water levels. And even though the numbers have changed, today, like messengers from the past, all of these birds still depend on Great Salt Lake as an essential stopover during their annual migrations.
Birds epitomize our spiritual quest: Transcending national borders and serving missions between earth and sky, they implore us to gaze into the heavens in wonderment. For thousands of years we have watched them, inspired by their soaring flights and captivated by their songs.
Their eggs and meat sustained prehistoric residents; their tiny bones made whistles for calling benevolent spirits. When their migrations blackened the skies, birds heralded the changing season. The element of open water attracts many species, providing food, nesting materials, and a measure of safety.
These ageless events persevere in the fertile marshes, bogs and ponds along lake shores, and on Great Salt Lake and its islands. In fact, the lake ecosystem is one of the most important wildlife habitats in the Western Hemisphere, and has been for at least 8,000 years.
Great Salt Lake draws millions of wetland birds a year. A few of the numbers counted during migrations offer a glimpse at the lake's vitality: one third of the world population of Wilson's phalaropes were seen feeding here -- 500,000 observed on the lake in a single July day; 250,000 American avocets in a fall count; 600,000 ducks and 40,000 swans using the Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge.
The eastern shore holds critical wetlands habitat and is designated as a Western Hemispheric Shorebird Reserve, part of an international program designed to help protect key shorebird sites in North and South America. A few scattered federal, state and private bird refuges and wildlife sanctuaries have been established around the lake. These conserve some of the critical breeding grounds.
Bird numbers are so great, however, that many rest, feed and nest on land outside the refuges, land which is increasingly threatened by human encroachment, development and pollution. Biologist Don Paul, a bird specialist with the Utah Division of Wildlife Resources, says of shorebirds, "To insure long-term viability of shorebird populations on the lake, we need contiguous wetlands with associated uplands and intact water delivery systems."." While some species visit the lake ecosystem for just a few weeks during arduous migrations, others reside here. On Gunnison Island, in the north arm of the lake, up to 18,000 American white pelicans nest on habitat free of terrestrial predators and human disturbance. Prehistoric in stature and graceful in flight, white pelicans are a joy to watch as they cruise the lake's thermals, flying daily to feed at freshwater marshes around the lake. If you're lucky, you may spot a team of the big birds fishing cooperatively--swimming in formation as they herd fish into shallows then scoop them up with their bills.
About 10,000 snowy plovers, a shorebird species which appears to be dwindling, breed on the flats around the lake. The lake is also home to the largest breeding population of California gulls in the world, about 160,000 of the birds which rescued early Mormon pioneers from crop-eating insects and which have been designated Utah's state bird.
One autumn morning, I flew in a Cessna Skyhawk over the Farmington Bay marshes. Below me, a marbled pattern of gold, red and green unfolded in the early light. Gazing down on this colorful wetlands mosaic, I spotted a silvery flock of swans flying in picture-perfect tranquility and harmony. You don't have to go airborne, though, to see the avian flocks. Nor is a boat necessary. There are plenty of accessible vantages on the ground where you can observe the lake's rich diversity of birds. All you need is a pair of binoculars.
Antelope Island State Park Chukar, an exotic game species introduced to the western U.S. from Asia in the early 1950s, proliferate here. It's hard to do a hike without hearing their chuk-chuk-chuk along the hillsides; they are readily sighted scurrying around at the visitor center. Although common on the island, this species is rarely seen in the eastern U.S.
Tim Smith, Antelope Island State Park manager and an avid birder, says that one of the best places to sight a variety of species is from the seven-mile causeway that spans the lake from Syracuse to the island.
To reach the island, take I-15 to the Syracuse exit (335) and follow Antelope Drive west to the causeway. Entrance fee is $7/vehicle, $3/bicycle.
Layton Wetlands Preserve Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge The water receded about 1990 and the habitat is pretty much recovered," notes Vickie Roy, wildlife biologist at the refuge. "In fact, in some cases there are more birds than there were before the floods." A new visitor center, including exhibit area, auditorium, classroom space and boardwalks, is slated for completion in 2001.
With 74,000 acres of marshes, mud flats, uplands and open water, this is Utah's largest intact wetlands complex and a great place to view birds. A pair of binoculars is needed and a spotting scope is recommended. The refuge is open during daylight hours and there is no charge to enter. Camping is not allowed. Follow signs to a 15-mile gravel road heading west from Brigham City.
"There is good birding all along this road, says Roy. "It is gravel, however, and it occasionally gets flooded in the spring, so it's a good idea to call the refuge first to find out the road condition."
As many as 40,000 tundra swans show up in the fall, with the migration usually peaking around Thanksgiving. Hunting is allowed here and heaviest use by hunters is October through early December.
Ogden Bay Waterfowl Management Area>br>
801-476-2740 Vehicle gates are open daylight hours only on weekdays in winter, but hikers can walk into the area anytime. Take I-15 to Roy (exit 341) and travel west on Utah 97 to the end of this road. Turn north on Utah 108 for 0.1 mile, then west on Utah 98 to Hooper. Continue west on 5500 South, then north on 7500 West to the wetlands.
Farmington Bay Waterfowl Management Area "The last time we estimated human use,", says Justin Dolling, area manager, "non-consumptive use outnumbered consumptive use. We do a lot of school bus tours, and we get a lot of people coming out just to look."
Dolling encourages non-hunters to buy Wildlife Heritage and Habitat certificates, available for $20.25 from DWR offices. "This is a good program for folks who want to benefit wildlife programs in Utah, but don't want to buy a hunting or fishing license, which is where most of our funding comes from," says Dolling.
As with all the lake's marshes, if you plan to walk around here, be prepared for for mud and-- depending on the season -- cold weather or mosquitos. Many bird watchers do so from their vehicles. along those dikes which are open to motorized travel. "Vehicles actually make a pretty good blind," notes Dolling. "Wildlife are somewhat accustomed to seeing vehicles on the dikes." Besides birds, red fox, muskrats, raccoons, frogs, snakes and a resident herd of mule deer are common.
In February, the area hosts Bald Eagle Day, when extra staff with spotting scopes are on hand on hand to answer questions. Extended auto tour routes are open on Migratory Bird/Wetlands Day, observed on a Saturday in earlly May.
These wetlands are prime breeding habitat for many birds, so most of the area is closed from March 1 to August 1; vistors are confined to the north end and to cycling on one main dike.
Take I-15 to the Centerville exit and catch Frontage Road north to Glovers Lane. Then continue west to 1325 West, and south into the management area.
<"Visit often," suggests Dolling. "There is always something going on that is unusual."
South Shore Gillmor Wildlife Sanctuary, owned by the National Audubon Society, is located on the south shore in an area known as Browns Island. It covers over 1,400 acres on the old Jordan River delta.
"It's been sitting out there for 3,000 years pretty much intact," notes Ella Sorensen, the sanctuary's caretaker. "We're going to use the topography that is there." A Central Utah Project grant paid for a feasability study for dikes and canal work. Plans call for flooding the lands in the spring, and letting them dry up in the fall, replicating the region's natural cycle.
Possibly the best birding area of the south shore is by Saltair. Drive west on I-80 to the Saltair exit, and you'll find easy strolling along shorelines and beaches. In addition to resident raptors, migratory waterfowl and shorebirds also are common, especially in the fall.
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The Layton Wetlands provide nesting, foraging and staging habitat for redheads, geese, pelicans, phalaropes, ibises, avocets and numerous other shorebirds and waterfowl. Visitors may also see bank swallows which migrate through this area. Like most swallows, these aerial acrobats can put on quite a show, especially when up to 15,000 appear in a single flock.
Surrounded by private land with no open access, the Gillmor Sanctuary currently is closed to the public. Sorensen hopes that will change in the future.
